Border Collie Puppies
Lock-Eye Puppy Page
Click on a litter below to go directly to that litter! (Use
your back button to return to top)
Dixie
and Colt litter, born on April 15th, 2009 (7 week
photos)
This Page Last Updated On
June 2nd, 2009
Border Collie puppies bred by Lock-Eye Border Collies are in training
around the world! Lock-Eye Border Collies produce awesome puppies for a variety
of activities. We offer border
collie puppies for sale that are selectively bred for their
intense work ethic and endurance. Our dogs excel at herding and work cattle,
sheep and ducks. We have also sold several dogs that work as "Goose Control
dogs." These dogs scare off ("Herd") wild geese that refuse
to migrate and are a health hazard to the public. Lock-Eye Border Collies
also compete in top level Canine Sports, such as Agility, Flyball and Obedience.
There are also many Lock-Eye Border Collies around the country doing Search
and Rescue and several puppies in training. We are proud of them all! We are
located in North Eastern Oklahoma. (Westville,Oklahoma)
Feel free to call me at: 918 723-3052 (Michelle Weese) if you would like to
talk the "Old Fashioned Way."
I
especially have a soft spot in my heart for Search and Rescue dogs. The dog
pictured left and right is a Smooch x Bronze daughter born 1-14-02. Dessa
is an acronym for Drive Energy, Search for the Scent
and Alert. Dessa is owned and trained by Kelly Pontbriand. Dessa
was certified with Maine Search and Rescue Dogs as a wilderness search dog
in May 2004. Since that time, she has responded to five searches with
her handler. Although she did not locate the missing people, she did an excellent
job covering her search area. During several other searches, she located and
indicated to her handler several potential clues. In another search, she picked
up a scent pool and worked confidently under a low hovering helicopter that
flew over to see if they could spot the missing subjects. Winter 2005 did
not bring any calls, but Dessa continued her training throughout the winter
and will be ready to go when the next call comes along. Kelly
works for the National
Park Service and have been using border collies for search and rescue work
since 1987. Dessa is her 3rd Border Collie she has trained in
this lifesaving work.
Dessa also "talks"
on command. It's guaranteed to bring a smile. (Click on the link to the left
to hear her talk.)
Our Border Collie puppies for sale are the result of a
breeding program which is a very selective process. Many people expect to
get the perfect dog by just putting two Border Collies together. Nothing could
be further from reality! We study each potential Dam and Sire objectively
to determine what qualities each might bring to the gene pool of the puppies.
Temperament is as equally as important as herding ability, for without a biddable
nature, the working relationship between human and dog suffers.
We spend many hours clicker training our puppies before
they go to their new homes. Behaviors learned are Come (recall), Sit, Down,
Wave Hello,
Roll over, fetch toys, tug and they are leash and crate trained. Most recently,
we have started teaching them to hit the staples Easy button!
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Click
on the red button below to see what commands we teach our puppies before
they go to their new homes!!
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INFORMATION
PAGE
The info page was created
to help prepare you for the pup's arival and
how to prevent the most common mistakes in the first year.
Video clips!
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Lock-Eye Dixie & Rockin' G's Colt
puppies are here! !!
April 15th, 2009
All pups will be medium to rough coated and they are
all Black and white.
Dixie and Colt are CEA Normal and OFA Good. All pups will be CEA Normal.
All our pups are trained to Come, Sit, Down, Wave
Hello and are leash and crate trained by 9 weeks old!
|
NEW!!
INFORMATION PAGE
The info page was created
to help prepare you for the pup's arival and
how to prevent the most common mistakes in the first year.
Video clips! |
00000000000000000000000000000000CLICK
HERE For More Planned Breedings**
p
Click on the button above for prices and my puppy contract.
When sending a deposit (via paypal or by check) fill out the
puppy contract, sign and email or snail mail it back to me.
I must receive the contract prior to you being put on the deposit list.
Blastoff Talk'N It Up and Lock-Eye Peck on the Cheek, "Peck" litter is here!
"Sassy"
(Click on the link to the left to see more pics!)
Is bred to Lock-Eye Peck on the
Litter due on May 12th, 2009
Sassy is OFA Good, CEA Normal as is Peck.
We are the proud new owners of Sassy.
Lock-Eye Kye is bred to Lock-Eye Phazer!
Litter due on June 2nd, 2009
Kye is
a River (Merle River) x Fuse daughter and will be staying with us at
Lock-Eye until late summer of 2009.
She is CEA Normal and is OFA Good! All pups will be CEA Normal by parentage.
&
 
Lock-Eye Phazer
(Pearl x Lazer son)
CLICK
HERE For More Planned Breedings** |
|
Click
on the red button below to see video examples of what we teach our puppies
before they go to their new homes!!
How we raise our puppies &
Clicker training the first 9 weeks:
Our puppies are born into
a loving environment. Our whelping boxes are set up in our dining room.
There are X-pens around them so that the mom's can stretch and have
access to food and water. After the pups are born, we clean the whelping
box and put fresh newspaper down. On top of this we put two flat door
mats to give them traction. Rugs are dangerous because the pups can
crawl under them or the mom might scratch it up over them and they might
smother. The flat door mats are the safest flooring for the box we have
found.
We take photos of our pups soon after birth. Sometimes we even post
photos while they are still wet. It depends on how fast the pups are
born.
Sometimes there are 2 hours between pups and others are born every 15
minutes! We post dry photos usually at one day old.
Since the pups don't change from birth until their eyes open, we take
the next photos at about 2 weeks old, then weekly after that.
At 3 days old, we start "Early
Neurological Stimulation" pppppCLICK
on the blue link to the left to view a web page about it.
We do the stimulation once a day until the 16th day. In addition to
the stimulation, we put a heating pad in the whelping box(depending
on time of the year) which has a vibrating feature. This helps the pups
get used to the nail dremel which also vibrates. We take the pups out
of the box and clean it as needed. At this age, the mom stimulates her
babies to potty by licking their rear and tummies. She takes care of
clean up until the pups start eating solid food at 3 weeks. Some mom's
never stop cleaning up after their babies.
At
2 weeks old, the pups are bottle fed once a day to encourage
bonding with humans.
 
I put them in a basket and take them into the living room.
I take them out one by one and as I am feeding them, I rub them all
over, rock them gently and talk to them. Their ears and eyes are just
starting to open! I grind their nails with a dremel.
The vibration sometimes makes them burb after eating. It's funny. I
do their nails once a week to make them smooth. When they are nursing
their mom, they knead like a kitten and if their nails are sharp, it's
ouchy on the mom's teats.
At this age they will wake up and walk, stagger, fall over, get back
up again and get as far as they can away from their bedding to potty.
Now we tape "wee wee" mats to the floor and over them we put
some shredded newspaper. Just a thin layer. Don't want the pups to get
lost.
When the pups are 3 weeks old,
we give them their first meal. It's gruel made from puppy food in a
blender. I add goats milk also. At this age, they wear a lot of the
food when they try to eat. We also worm them at 3 weeks of age.
At
3 weeks and 3 days (average) they start
to Come Alive! When I hear the first darling puppy bark, I know
the playing will start. They are given tiny infant toys that have rattles
and noisemakers. I also hang a tug toy with a bell attached to it so
they can start learning to tug!
They need more space at 3 weeks, so I remove the whelping box. The potty,
sleep and play areas are distinctly different at this point. We put
shredded newspaper in the potty area. There are photos at the last section
of this page. This is the start of house training! Having a "special"
area to potty in makes it easier for them to learn to keep their living
area clean. Sometime during this week, I add a few rabbit hutch pans
with shredded newspaper to the far side of the pen. They rarely soil
their sleeping or play areas after 4 weeks old.
At 4 weeks of age, they are eating
some Diamond puppy kibble and Bil Jac frozen food (Thawed of course).
It's like doggie hamburger.
They are getting much more agile and can make it further away from their
sleeping place to eliminate.
They are playing more and are
given things to crawl over and under and larger
toys that make more noise.
I grind their nails with a dremel
once a week, just prior to taking photos.
At
5 weeks old we start their clicker training and also their crate
training & car rides. They are moved to our "Puppy house"
& "Play yard" which is an 8 by 12 climate controlled children's
play house, complete with a porch for sunning themselves. There are
two doggie doors with steps up to the doors. If it is in the winter,
the are only put out on sunny days after they are 6-7 weeks old. The
other times, they are in our attached garage which is set up like "Romper
Room" with all the Little Tykes play toys, slides and stairs.
We have a crate for each pup along the back wall and a CD player for
listening to music and also Sound Desensitization CD's. (Noise CD's)
They hear children playing, babies screaming, gunshots, fireworks, dogs
barking, vacuum cleaners, kitchen sounds, police sirens, thunderstorms
and rain on a tin roof.
To begin their clicker training, we first need to do something called
"Charging the clicker." This is done by clicking the clicker
and then giving them a tiny bite of a food they love. (Chicken, cheese
or beef) You do this over and over-----click/treat--click/treat--click/treat
until when you click, the pup turns around expecting a treat! At that
point, you wait to click until the pup has done something you
want to put a name to later. Such as coming to you, sitting or laying
down. The first
thing the pups learn is "Come!" I will simply walk
away and 99.9 % of the time, the pups trot along after me. I will Click
and Treat as soon as the pup gets to me. Where you give the pup the
food is very important in shaping it's behavior. I will bend down slightly
and offer the treat right in front of me, in between my front feet.
Close to you as possible.
Never walk to the pup and give it the treat. If it's not coming to you,
then you go over to the pup and show the pup the food, by briefly
touching your fingers holding the food to it's nose and then backing
away slowly. If he's hungry, he will come with you! THEN, click and
treat when he's right between your feet. Repeat many times, changing
the direction you walk to. Don't walk over to the same spot and you
can sometimes walk around a corner to see if the pup will follow you.
Click and treat every time the pup runs to you. When the pup "gets
the game"--and you can tell when he does, because the pup will
be hard to fool! You won't be able to get away from it. Now, you give
the Come! command just before walking away. Click and treat as usual
when the pup gets to you. Do not repeat the command. NEVER say Come!
Come! Come! Come!
That only teaching your pup to ignore you! Instead, if your pup ignores
you, turn around and walk away. Sometimes this is like a magnet--it
attracts them. Then you can click and treat. If the pup doesn't come,
I will show it the food again and go back to the first step. (Not saying
the command first)
The 2nd
behavior I teach my pups is either Sit
or Down, depending on what the pup offers. When I say "Offer,"
what I really mean is what he does without you luring or guiding him
into place using food. It is much better to allow the pup to learn clicker
training starting off this way.
If you always lure him into position, he doesn't
learn to think for himself! They "get the game"
much faster if you wait until your pup spontaneously sits or downs and
you click and treat him. He will think "What did I do to get her
to click?"
If the pup looses interest, you can show it the food, but then put your
hand behind your back or off to the side of your leg. You just want
to show it what it's working for, not use it as a bribe.
You wait, tick tock, tick tock.......the
pup sits or downs a 2nd time-- you click and treat. It might take 10-25
times and then the pup will start smacking his bottom or tummy on the
floor understanding that is what got you to click! This is when you
start adding the command of "Sit"
or "Down"
just prior to the pup doing it. (One second before it does
the behavior--- you can tell by his body language that it is going to
do the behavior for sure.) Practice this until the pup connects the
command word with the actual behavior.
*NOTE*Some behaviors are
learned faster by using a lure and some behaviors are almost impossible
to catch the pup doing them "naturally."
The 3rd Behavior the
pup learns is to WAVE HELLO! (This
can also be shake hands) Wait until the pup sits--but don't tell it
to sit. In this case, you can lure the sit. The reason you don't want
to give the pup a sit command before you begin teaching the wave is
that the pup will start to think that Sit means sit and wave, not just
sit. The same is true for other commands. You don't want to say the
name of a different command before you start teaching a new one. Later,
much later, you will be giving many different commands, but at that
time, the pup will have a full understanding of what the previous commands
are.
To teach the Wave or Shake hands:
I take a piece of food and put it between my thumb and 2nd finger. Let
the pup smell it and then hold it still at the pup's chin level. If
you raise it up too high, the pup will jump up and if you have it too
low, the pup will lay down. Chin level is the correct spot. Leave it
there and the pup will raise it's foot up to paw at your hand. CLICK
and then open your hand and give the food.
Do this until the pup readily paws at your hand, then go a step further,
but giving a hand signal with your pointing finger. Show the pup the
food and then wave at it with your finger, then when the pup paws at
your hand, take it away the split second before it makes contact. Click
and treat while the pup's paw is in the air. Repeat and hold out for
the waves that are the highest--only click those! after they are high,
wait for one or two waves or even three before you click and treat.
It really becomes a waving action then! Or if you just want the pup
to hold it's paw still in the air, click that instead. (It will look
like a Salute.) When you get the behavior like you want it, then add
the cue word/command just prior to giving the hand signal.
Crate training and riding
in cars: Starting at 5 weeks, the pups
are put into crates in pairs for about 15 minutes to start, then gradually,
I increase the time. At 6 weeks old, they are usually up to around two
hours crate time several times a day.
They are taken on short rides to the post office or another short errand.
It is rare for the pups to get sick or even cry.
The prior crate training they have plus the sound of the engine/vibration
puts them right to sleep.
* All of the above behaviors
are learned between 5 weeks old and the end of the 6th week.
Starting the 7th week:
The
4th Behavior will be Down or Sit,
depending on what the pup did for the 2nd behavior. If he learned Down,
then I will lure him up with a piece of food into the sit position.
It only takes a few times before you have it on a hand signal. I use
the palm of the hand going upwards. After the pup is going into a sit
from the down position, I then add the verbal command just prior to
my hand signal.
If the pup learned sit first, to teach the down I will wait the pup
out. You can work on the other behaviors for a few minutes and then
sit down in a quiet room. The pup might get frustrated and jump around
acting silly. Try to stare at the floor, don't stare directly at the
pup. If he accidentally falls down while jumping around, then Click
and treat! Sooner than you think, the pup will lay down. When he does,
click and give him a handful of treats (JACKPOT!) while praising him
with your voice and or petting him. Have a party for a few seconds.
*NOTE* Give the food on the floor--don't
offer the food up high. The pup will gravitate to where you feed it,
so feed it on the floor! Even if the pup gets up, keep the food low
to feed it. Then wait again. You can give the pup a sniff of the treat
in your hand, but then hide it again. Wait---the pup will lay down,
and get a click and treat. In maybe 1 or 2 lessons, he will be flopping
himself down on the floor and looking up at you in anticipation of the
click and treat!
5th Behavior is Roll over!
Lure the pup into a down (No verbal cues to down, because we aren't
working on Down and don't want to get the pup confused between down
and roll over.) Pup is lured down and then you take note of which way
it's hips are resting. If one is flat on the ground, it will probably
be easier to get your pup to roll over that direction. Place the food
near the nose and s-l-o-w-l-y lead it's nose to the pup's side and then
click and treat. Repeat several times. After the pup easily goes that
far, move your hand with the treat further over it's back and it should
follow you and roll over. Click and give a jackpot! Lots of treats this
time.
Crate training during
the 7th to 9th weeks: We gradually
increase the time the pups are in their individual crates to about 4
hours for the longest time. They are put into the crates for short (30
minutes to an hour) time spans also.
This is usually when we feed them after clicker training them. After
eating a full meal, they have to potty about 30 minutes later. Our normal
long crate time is noon to 3 or 4 PM. I've found that the pups are on
a natural siesta and just sleep, so it makes learning easier. In addition
to the normal crate training, we start playing "Crate Games"
with them. Susan Garrette has a DVD called Crate
Games. It can be ordered at her web site. Click
on the blue link to the left
You can also see video examples of all
the above behaviors being taught to our puppies at our Video Example
page.
Click on the red button below!
ppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppp
At 7 weeks old,
we start Leash Training. The pup is wearing
a leash, but I do not pull the pup in any way. The pup learns when it
goes to the end of the leash, if it comes back in my direction, it is
given a click and treat. I don't walk towards the pup to give the treat---
instead, I click for a step in my direction and then hold the treat
against the front of my pants. This will encourage a front
recall later. It generally only takes one lesson to each this the pup
not to pull!
If I stand in one spot for a while and the pup doesn't give up, I will
simply say "Come" because the pup has already learned this
and 99% of the time, the pup will bound towards me.
I start teaching the pup where I want it to walk by showing the pup
the food in my left hand and move the hand slowly towards my left leg.
Sometimes I will take one step back and then one forward to bring the
pup into "Heel" position.
(The pup is in "Heel" position when it's shoulder is in line
with the seam of my pants.) If the pup stands or sits in heel position
even a few seconds, click and treat again--but REMEMBER to feed against
the seam of your pants leg.
When you give the treat, have the palm side of your hand facing backwards
where the pup can see the treat. If your hand/treat is facing forwards,
it will cause the pup to curve around to where it can get to the treat.
Gradually take more steps before you click and treat. Only click when
the pup is in the actual "Heel" position and then FEED IN
HEEL POSITION! A dog (or any animal) will gravitate (be pulled towards)
the area where it gets the reward.
Puppy
Picking Day is at 7 weeks old. The reason we
wait until the pups are 7 weeks old is so that we can better determine
their temperaments and personality traits, including drive level and
intensity. We want to place pups that are the highest drive in preformance
or herding homes and those that are lower in drive in active pet homes.
The pups that are medium drive
have their place also. We get to know the people who have sent in deposits
to better suggest pups that match their lifestyles.
Deposits and other misc
information. We
have a waiting list for our pups. To be put on the waiting list, you
would need to send in a deposit for half the purchase price of a pup.
Since I have lots of litters coming up soon, there wouldn't be a long
wait for a pup. Picking order is based on the date the deposit was received,
so get yours in soon!
p
Click on the button above for prices and my puppy contract.
To be continued...
|
Questions or Comments about this site E-mail
Me or call 918 723-3052
|
NEW!!
INFORMATION PAGE
The info page was created to
help prepare you for the pup's arival and
how to prevent the most common mistakes in the first year.
Video clips!
|
p
Click on the button above for prices and my puppy contract.
Questions or Comments
about the pups?? Questions or Comments about
the pups?? E-Mail
Me (lockeyebc@gmail.com)
Michelle is my name.
918 723-3052
This is a photo of Michelle and one of her Border Collies, Wyn
Click
on the red button below to see what commands we teach our puppies before they
go to their new homes!!
To view the litter Pedigree and more information,
click on the Parents
page!
CLICK
HERE For More Planned Breedings**
Questions or Comments about this site E-mail
Me or call 918 723-3052
|
Why a Lock-Eye?
Read below what all we do the first 8 weeks!
(Be sure and visit our reference
page too!)
*Ask for a free copy of our "Pup-TV!"* (Limited
time offer)
Send your name and postal address to:
lockeyebc@gmail.com
CALL for any information regarding pups or DVD's.
918 723-3052
Video clips!
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Our puppies are raised in the house with human interaction.
The advantage of working at home raising Border Collies is that I am there
to mold their minds in these critical first 8 weeks of life. This is my "day
job" - (24/7 acutally). You can never make up for lack of socialization
at this stage, so I take my work very seriously! When the puppies are 2 weeks
old, they are fed "fresh squeezed" goats milk from a bottle. This
has an amazing effect on the puppies. There is a vast difference in a puppy
that is bottle fed and one that isn't. Feeding pups from a bottle imprints
them on humans. They are still allowed complete access to mothers milk, of
course.
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We take each puppy out individually and clicker train
them as soon as they can take a treat from your hand. When they go to their
new homes, Lock-Eye Border Collie puppies have already learned commands such
as Come,Sit,
Down,
and Wave. They are Leash Trained, play ball, AND tug
like Pit bulls. Some learn fetch
before the leave also! If you aren't familiar with clicker training, it is
a totally positive method of training, adapted from the way Dolphins are trained.
Instead of a whistle, we use a "Clicker." It is so easy, it could
be mistaken for magic! I refer to my clicker as a "magic wand!"
With your new puppy, we send our Lock-Eye Clicker Video or DVD on how to Clicker
train.
More Video clips!
For more information on clicker training, read our class handout from Ain't
Misbehavin' Clicker training classes and visit Gary Wilke's web site at:
http://www.clickandtreat.com.
I highly recommend all of his video tapes! Corally Burmaster also has an excellent
video on Clicker training pups! Visit her web site at: http://www.clickertrain.com.html
pppp http://www.click-l.com
/Gems/
We crate
train our puppies starting at 5-6 weeks old. We do this by
first leaving an open crate in the puppy play area.
They naturally go in it when they are sleepy. We then close the door for 30
minutes, or until they wake up and need to go potty.
Right outside the door to the crate, we put a "litter box" (a large
wooden frame with shredded paper). The puppies learn to use it!
They potty as soon as they get out of the crate, and I gradually move the
box to a corner of the pen. This keeps the play pen very sanitary.
Dinah x Colt puppies in the play pen at 3 1/2 wks. (With Beth)
All are grown dogs now!
Above is another version of my puppy play area.( Smooch
x Lazer pups--all grown dogs now!) They are 4 1/2 weeks old in this photo.
Between 4-5 weeks of age they use a potty box for eliminating. They go to
it on their own! It has shredded newspaper in it.
The benefits of the potty box is tremendous. It makes clean up a breeze for
me and the pups
learn to keep their play and sleep areas separate from potty places. This
helps house train them
and keeps the puppies clean. When the puppies are larger, I will replace the
wooden frame with
a plastic "under the bed" storage box. It needs to be low enough
for the pups to hop into it.
It is amazing to watch a 5 week old puppy in mid-play
stop and run to the litter box!
This is a Smooch x Lazer puppy named Zing! ownned by Mary Rimmer. In this
clip Zing! was 7 weeks old.
Here is another example!
CLICK
for video clip!
New owners can continue this method and it makes house
training a breeze. Just change the litter box to a plastic box and move the
box closer to the door to outside. The biggest problem when house training
a puppy is not knowing exactly when the puppy has to go potty (it seems like
ALL THE TIME). With the litter box method, the puppy goes to it, so you can
gently pick it up and take it to the door and say, "Wanta go out?"
You then click and treat when the puppy eliminates outside! No problem at
all. The new owners could take this one step further and have a "designated
potty area" outside. Wouldn't it be nice not to have to hunt for those
"tootsie rolls"?
As the puppies grow, they can "hold it" longer,
so we increase the time they are in their crates. By the time they are 6 weeks
old, they are being fed meals in their individual crates. They are totally
crate trained by 8-9 weeks.
Starting at 4 weeks, the puppies are given rides in a
vehicle and also in our "Puppy wagon". This early exposure to movement
prevents them from getting carsick later when they go to their new homes.
The puppies that fly to their new homes are rarely stressed when they arrive.
This is because all the noise isn't new to them! I place a rawhide in the
crate when they fly and usually it is chewed on. Puppies that are stressed,
don't chew on rawhide. Generally Lock-Eye puppies come out of the crate a
licking and a wagging! We have shipped puppies to Switzerland, Canada, Denmark,
Korea, France, Mexico, Columbia, Italy and Brazil. Even with these extremely
long flights, they have faired well and are frisky and friendly with their
new families!
We take our young puppies to the local nursing home and
also to Cooksen Hills Christian Ministries. The latter is a Children's home.
They all love to play with puppies! This early socialization with children
sets a positive tone for the puppies relationship with "little people".
My own daughter, Beth loves puppies and has been known to "Camp out"
in the puppy play pen. Too cute!
The health of our puppies is very important to us. Having
worked at a Veterinary Clinic as a Veterinary Assistant for 7 years was valuable
in teaching me how to provide the best of care for my dogs.
Our puppies start out eating a gruel of Bil Jac frozen
dog food (thawed of course) mixed with goats milk. As they develop teeth,
we add dry kibble for puppies made by Diamond. We send a sample of Diamond
puppy food with our pups. New owners can feed this food or switch gradually
to a quality food of their choice. NOTE: You will need to switch to ADULT
dog food at the age of 4 months old--or large breed puppy food to prevent
the puppy from growing to fast.
At 3, 4, 5 & 6 weeks old our puppies are wormed with
Drontal suspension. It is very safe for the puppies. Worming the puppies at
3 weeks old is critical. Even if the dam is worm-free, worm larvae is encysted
in the dam and they are passed through to the puppies via the placenta. (encysted
worms can't be killed by giving the dam worm medicine) If the puppies aren't
wormed at this age, there is a very real danger of the puppies having seizures
from the worm larvae migrating to the brain. At 6 weeks old or before if needed,
we give the pups a dose of Baycox (Toltrazurl) to treat for Coccidiosis, which
is very comon in puppies. At 8 weeks old we worm with Paratak plus, which
gets all types of worms. We get these medications from Vet-N-Pet in Austrailia.
Shipping to the US is fast (7-8 days) and is not expensive. Also, you can
get Heart worm prevention without a prescription. http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/home.php
Another excellent place to order medications is: http://www.kvvet.com
We give the puppies their first vaccinations at 5 weeks
old. The first shot is Parvo only. Neo-Par.
(Neo Par is the safest and most effective parvo vaccine for
puppies. It is a modified live vaccine containing a high antigenic mass of
a highly immunogenic strain of canine parvo. Neo Par overrides moderate to
high antibody levels such as maternal antibodies or from pre-existing vaccination.
High levels of IgM and IgG antibodies are generated in puppies. Safe in puppies
3 weeks of age or older.)
At 8 weeks old we give Intervet's Progard-5 (Canine Distemper-Adenovirus
Type 2-Paraninfluenza-Parvovirus Vaccine.
It claims to protect against the newest strain of parvo, Variant C (CPV type
2c) Here is an article on it's discovery: http://www.cvhs.okstate.edu/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=437&Itemid=291
(Copy and paste to your web browser if the link doesn't
work.)
The puppies go to their new homes between 8 and 9 weeks old with a health/shot
record.
The next shots are due between 11 weeks, with
follow ups at 14 and 17 weeks old. Give Rabies when your vet recommends.
Please write it on your calendar! It's critical to either get the proper shots
or have your vet do an immunity titer to determine your puppie's immunity
status. The vet will also worm the puppy and it is common for the puppy to
pass dead worms.
In addition to providing the best possible environment and stimulus
for the puppies first 8-9 weeks, we continue to be available for any questions
the new owner might have regarding training the puppy and/or problems that
might arise. (Please call for help as it is an easier way to communicate!)
This is just as important to us as breeding and raising our puppies. 918
723-3052
