Border Collie Puppies
Web page was last updated on Feb 11th, 2012

Current litters: Carmen & Cinch || Honey & Phazer || Flame & Sage || E-Z & Cinch ||
**NEW PICS!! Lilac & Peck || Snazzy & Peck **NEW PICS!!
**NEW Desi and Peck litter!**
Click on one of the links above to go directly to that litter.
**Puppy picking is done for the Carmen and Honey litters. All pups shown for those two litters are available.
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Lock-Eye Puppy Page. Read the entire page for a wealth of information. Plus visit our info and references pages!
To view the Active people on the deposit list: Click here
NOTE: If you have trouble viewing the deposit list, email me and I will email it to you. Email me at: lockeyeweese@gmail.com
Subscribe to our YouTube site to watch video clips of training and playing with the pups!
Go to www.youtube.com/lockeye2nd (CLICK ON SEE ALL)

I'll tweet when I've updated my web site, or when a new litter is born!

"Like" us on our Lock-Eye Border Collie Face Book Fan Page!

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To get on the deposit list, send a deposit for half the purchase price to the address listed on the puppy contract.
Email me for a copy of the contract in word doc format. lockeyebc@gmail.com
Or click on this button

Pups are $1,200 for pups that will be spayed/neutered (at one year old) $200 more for "Breeding Potential pups"
The purchase price includes the microchip and registering the chip with the national database, Clicker training DVD, A Herding Demo DVD and Pup-TV. We also provide a new collar and leash, a dog food sample and the shot record and AKC papers. (ABCA for an extra charge)
Our pups are exceptional because of everything we do to prepare them for the world.
1) At 3 days old, we start "Early Neurological Stimulation" (Clips on youtube of this) and continue until 16 days.
2) At 2 weeks old, we bottle feed our puppies to facilitate early bonding with humans. They still have access to their mom for nursing.
3) We grind their nails and brush them prior to photos. 4) We handle/interact with our pups often and when they start playing at 3 weeks and 3 days
5) When they are able to mouth on toys and tug, we provide many different types/textures of toys to learn to play. 6) They are given tunnels, stairs, tippy boards, boxes,toys that make noise and toys that stimulate their senses to help them to be less reactive to things in their environment.
When we toss a new item into their play area, they all rush to investigate like "wolves to a kill!"
6) We also play sound CD's to help our pups acclimate to noises that might be scary to a puppy or adult dog. Fireworks, cars, trains, guns, etc.
7) We have a variety of animals for our pups to play with, including cats (Who love pups and teach them to respect cats), "little dogs" including a mini Doxie, Papillions and a mini Staffy "pit bull" mix and of course adult dogs who like to visit puppies. 8) We have neighbor kids who play with each litter and also a 2 year old toddler who comes to visit and is very gentle with the pups! 9) A variety of adults hold, pet and help train them.
10) We start clicker training our puppies at 5 weeks old and if you watch our youtube clips of past litters, you will be amazed at how much we teach our pups before they are 9 weeks old!!! They learn Come, Sit, Down, Wave Hello,Shake Hands,
"Kiss on cue" and are Leash and Crate trained. They sometimes even learn to ring a bell to ask to go out to potty, Roll over, sit up and some--believe it or not, TALK!! Rooo Rooo! Go to www.youtube.com/lockeye2nd (CLICK ON SEE ALL)
11) They learn to use a Doggie Door and also a Potty Box.
12) Excellent food! Our puppies eat Taste Of The Wild dog food (Puppy formula) soaked in goats milk at first and then dry kibble by 9 weeks old
( http://www.tasteofthewildpetfood.com )

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Carmen and Cinch is a repeat breeding. Born on Dec 13th, 2011

Clips and pics on FB, Twitter and clips on Youtube|| Go to www.youtube.com/lockeye2nd (CLICK ON SEE ALL)
(Carmen is a Hope x Fuse daughter, mother of Venus)
Pups are AKC registered and can be ABCA registered.
Carmen is OFA Good, CEA Normal and Cinch is OFA Excellent and CEA Carrier.
It is fine to breed a carrier to a normal. The normal doesn't have the gene to give the pups. www.optigen.com
All pups are long haired
** All pups shown for the Carmen, Honey and Flame litters are available. (Feb 8th, 2012)**

 

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All pups shown in the Carmen & Cinch litter are available! Call me if you are interested! 918 723-3052

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Atari has been picked, but Playstation is still available. He'd be a great pet for someone with kids!
I would consider selling Playstation at a reduced price (Only him) for a deserving kid.
Go to www.youtube.com/lockeye2nd (CLICK ON SEE ALL)
Call me if you are interested! 918 723-3052

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Xbox is sold pending receipt of payment. He will go to PA.

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All pups shown in the Carmen & Cinch litter are available! Call me if you are interested! 918 723-3052

To view my puppy contract click on this button below

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Below are a few clips of Cinch to show his personality. Cinch is an INTENSE Border Collie with a fantastic temperament!

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When I have some free time, I'll film Cinch as an adult working the sheep. He's very stylish and is as Intense as a Border Collie can be!
Above is a clip of him at just 7 months old. The first time in the pasture working sheep.

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Honey and Phazer litter born on Dec Wed, Dec 14th,2011
2 red and 2 black pups, one of each male and female.
(Honey is a Smooch x Fuse daughter and Phazer is a Pearl and Lazer son.)
This is Honey's first litter.
Honey is OFA (Hips) Good and a CEA Carrier (Eyes) It is fine to breed a carrier to a normal. The normal doesn't have the gene to give the pups
Read more about this at www.optigen.com. Phazer is OFA Good and CEA Normal.
Pups are AKC registered and can be ABCA registered.
**Puppy picking is done for the Carmen and Honey litters. Wasp is available. **

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Wasp shown below in the Honey and Phazer litter is available!
Go to www.youtube.com/lockeye2nd (CLICK ON SEE ALL)

 

Wasp in the Honey and Phazer litter is available!
Go to www.youtube.com/lockeye2nd (CLICK ON SEE ALL)
Call me if you are interested! 918 723-3052

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Lock-Eye Honey (Left) ----- Phazer as a puppy (Right) on the cover of Stockdogs!

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Flame and Sage litter was born on Dec 18th, 2011
Flame is OFA Good and CEA Normal. Sage is OFA Good and CEA Carrier.
Pups are AKC registered and can be ABCA registered.
Pups shown are available in the Flame litter. We will post clilps soon.
Call me if you are interested in one of the pups. 918 723-3052

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Our Dixie & Colt daughter, E-Z and Cinch litter born on Dec 25th, 2011
E-Z is OFA Fair (Her parents are OFA Good) and CEA Normal, Cinch is OFA Excellent and CEA Carrier.
Pups are AKC registered and can be ABCA registered.
We are accepting deposits. You can pick from any litter in the order in which the deposit was received.
Picking for this litter is on Feb 12th, 2012 || Call me if you are interested in one of these beautiful boys!
I'm pretty sure most will be available. 918 723-3052

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Note: The adult in with the pups is not the momma. She just likes to nurse the pups also.
Honey's litter is weaned. Honey doesn't even have milk anymore, she just loves babies!

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Lilac and Peck litter was born on Jan 10th, 2012 (6 pups: 3 blue merle males, 1 red merle male, 1 red male and 1 red female)
Follow me on Twitter and Facebook for instant updates.
Get your deposit in early for a high picking spot on our deposit list. You can pick from any litter in the order in which the deposit was received.
OFA Good and CEA Normal (Both Lilac and Peck)
Parents are AKC and ABCA registered.
Picking for this litter will be on Wednesday, Feb 29th, 2012.
Lots of people who have sent in deposits are wanting the blue and red merles from both Lilac and Snazzy's litters.
To view the Active people on the deposit list: Click here || I will have litters in the future that have merles.

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Someone asked me the other day why there was such a size difference in the Lilac and Snazzy pups?
Them being a day apart was the reason they asked. It's simple. Snazzy's pups were born twice as big as Lilac's pups. Lilac's pups are in relation to her size and Snazzy's the same for her. Lilac is a light boned female.
Snazzy is a heavier boned girl. Because they came out twice as big--and pups don't usually shrink, they kept growning. :-)

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Visit youtube to see clips of her past litters with Peck. This is the 3rd repeat of this breeding!
One of those litters were almost all merles! Go to www.youtube.com/lockeye2nd

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Above is a clip of Peck's herding training at one year old with only 11 days of training!
He has been a very easy dog to train.

Peck has the most friendly, engaging personality! He LOVES everyone, human and animal.
When he walks by his baby puppies in the house, he licks them through the x-pen and wags his tail.
He is very gentle with our little house dogs also. Even when racing through our pasture, hills and trails with them, he is
careful not to run over them. (We have 2 Papilions, 2 Doxies and a Saffy x Doxie mix) Peck even loves our kitty cats. :-)
When people come to visit, Peck is always eager to greet them and play tug or fetch!

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Snazzy and Peck litter was born on Jan 11th, 2012
We put some quick pics up on Twitter. See links at the top of this page.
She has 7 pups: 1 blue merle female, 2 red merle males, 1 red merle female, 1 black and white male, 1 red and white female, 1 red male
All long haired pups. Pups will be AKC registered only
View our youtube clips of her first litter with Peck. Just search for Snazzy and Peck litter.
Go to www.youtube.com/lockeye2nd
Send your deposit in soon!

Follow me on twitter (@ lockeye) and FB for instant updates.

Picking for this litter will be on Wednesday, Feb 29th, 2012.
To view the Active people on the deposit list: Click here || I will have litters in the future that have merles also.

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Virginia will be picked for sure. If no one on the deposit list picks her, I will. :-)

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If I don't get Virginia , then I will pick Carolina if she is not picked by someone who is on the deposit list.

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I'm hoping someone from Texas who is a fan picks him! Hook 'em Horns! (Sorry Hogs and Sooners)

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Desi and Peck litter Born on Feb 10th, 2012
This is a repeat breeding. All pups will be Black and white, long haired beautiful pups.
Desi had 10 beautiful babies! 9 boys and 1 girl.

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You can search on youtube for Desi and Peck's previous litter!
Go to www.youtube.com/lockeye2nd || Click on SEE ALL and then type in the search box for Desi and Peck litter.

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Vibe and Phazer litter due on March 8th, 2012
Some short coated pups possible. She is showing now. (Feb 10th, '12)
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Swizzle has just come into heat and has been bred with Phazer(Feb 6th, 2012)
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Keep scrolling down for more information!!

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Look for this mailbox at the end of our driveway when you visit.
The puppy in the mailbox is grown now. :-)

To get on the deposit list, send a deposit for half the purchase price to the address listed on the puppy contract.
(For puppies UNDER 7 weeks old)
$1,200 total for a pup that will be spayed or neutered at 1 year old or $1,400 total for a pup with breeding potential- deposit is half
To view the Active people on the deposit list:Click here
We teach all of our pups to Come, Sit, Down, Wave Hello, Shake Hands and they are leash and crate trained!
Shipping is $400 extra. The "shipping package" includes plane ticket, crate to keep, leash and collar, our free DVD package that includes 4 dvd's and a clicker a 4 page handout, a microchip AND registering the chip in new owners name in the Home Again National Data Base, Vet Health Certificate, shots with shot record, including rabies if old enough.
This is for shipping within the United States and Canada only, call for price for outside US.
If you are picking up and flying back with your pup in cabin, the health certificate is $50 extra also. We loan sherpa bags with a refundable deposit

Watch new clips on youtube! www.youtube.com/user/lockeye2nd (CLICK ON SEE ALL)

Questions or Comments about the pups?? Questions or Comments about Email me at: lockeyeweese@gmail.com

Note: My Email may or may not reach me. Feel free to call me at: 918 723-3052 (text also) Michelle Weese
*Ask for a free copy of our DVD's. Clicker Training, Herding Demo, and 2 "Pup-TV's" (Limited time offer)

We are in North East-Central Oklahoma and are 1 mile from the Arkansas Border or 90 miles straight east of Tulsa, OK
We ship our pups all over the world! Recently we shipped pups to Italy and New Dehli, India!
Scroll completely down the page too see all the pups and litters due with pics of parents.
They are all AKC registered and ABCA registered upon request. (A few are only AKC registered)
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I'll tweet when I've updated my web site, or when a new litter is born!

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We have almost 60 acres with two hay fields, wooded trails and creeks for our Border Collies to enjoy!
Below is a photo taken one winter of our farm. We raise hair sheep, a mix of Katahadin and Dorper.
Our Border Collies herd and we wouldn't breed them if they didn't work livestock.
We also have a small group of "feeder calves" we raise up for the freezer. Nothing like homegrown beef!
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Above is a clip of two pups that are now sold, but it shows part of our property and how we take our pups on hikes.

CLICK HERE to read what all we do the first 9 weeks!

Want to see clips? www.youtube.com/user/lockeye2nd (CLICK ON SEE ALL)

Our puppies eat Taste Of The Wild dog food soaked in goats milk at first and then dry kibble by 9 weeks old
( http://www.tasteofthewildpetfood.com )

Click on the photo above to purchase the target stick from Mary Ray in England. (UK)
$35 includes shipping to the United States or other countries.
We use this wonderful invention to teach our pups a variety of behaviors, especially Heeling!

*Ask for a free copy of our DVD's. Clicker Training, Herding Demo, and 2 "Pup-TV's" (Limited time offer)

I do Early Neurological Stimulation with my pups starting at 3 days.
Read more about this at: http://kalaharirr.tripod.com/achiever.html
I start bottle feeding them for bonding purposes at 2 weeks old. They still have complete access to their mom.
Their nails are trimmed with the dremel weekly.
As they start eating gruel at 3 weeks old, I will whistle to them before putting the dish down and also say "Puppy, Come!"
Between 4-5 weeks, we charge the clicker and at 5 weeks old start their formal, clicker training lessons.
They are leash & crate trained, they also know the commands, Come, Sit, Wave hello, Shake Hands, Down by the time they are 9 wks.

INFORMATION PAGE The info page was created to help prepare you for the pup's arival and how to prevent the most common mistakes in the first year. Video clips!

If you have questions about the pups, call or text message to my cell phone 9187233052
Questions or Comments about the pups?? Questions or Comments about Email me at: lockeyeweese@gmail.com

Note: My Email may or may not reach me. Feel free to call me at: 918 723-3052 (text also) Michelle Weese
*Ask for a free copy of our DVD's. Clicker Training, Herding Demo, and 2 "Pup-TV's" (Limited time offer)

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Why a Lock-Eye?
CLICK HERE to read what all we do the first 9 weeks!
(Be sure and visit our reference page too!)
*Ask for a free copy of our "Pup-TV!"* (Limited time offer)

Questions or Comments about the pups?? Questions or Comments about Email me at: lockeyeweese@gmail.com

Note: My Email may or may not reach me. Feel free to call me at:918 723-3052 (text also) Michelle Weese

CALL for any information regarding pups or DVD's.
918 723-3052
Subscribe to our YouTube site to watch video clips of training and playing with the pups!
Go to www.youtube.com/lockeye2nd (CLICK ON SEE ALL)

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Email me for a copy of the contract in word doc format. lockeyebc@gmail.com
Or click on this button

Click on the button above for prices and my puppy contract.
To view the Active people on the deposit list:
Hip and CEA (eye) certificates gladly sent via email! All parents have been OFA and CEA tested
You can also go to www.offa.org and type in Lock-Eye in the search and see how many have been tested over the years.
Note: Some of my early dogs didn't have Lock-Eye as a prefix. Syd is one of them.
Call if you are interested. 918 723-3052, text also. ($1,200 for spay/neuter, $1,400 for breeding contract.)

Questions or Comments about the pups?? Questions or Comments about Email me at: lockeyeweese@gmail.com

Note: My Email may or may not reach me. Feel free to call me at: 918 723-3052 (text also) Michelle Weese
*Ask for a free copy of our DVD's. Clicker Training, Herding Demo, and 2 "Pup-TV's" (Limited time offer)

Border Collie puppies bred by Lock-Eye Border Collies are in training around the world! Lock-Eye Border Collies produce awesome puppies for a variety of activities. We offer border collie puppies for sale that are selectively bred for their intense work ethic and endurance. Our dogs excel at herding and work cattle, sheep and ducks. We have also sold several dogs that work as "Goose Control dogs." These dogs scare off ("Herd") wild geese that refuse to migrate and are a health hazard to the public. Lock-Eye Border Collies also compete in top level Canine Sports, such as Agility, Flyball and Obedience. There are also many Lock-Eye Border Collies around the country doing Search and Rescue and several puppies in training. We are proud of them all! We are located in North Eastern Oklahoma. (Westville,Oklahoma)
Feel free to call me at: 918 723-3052 (Michelle Weese) if you would like to talk the "Old Fashioned Way."

I especially have a soft spot in my heart for Search and Rescue dogs. The dog pictured left and right is a Smooch x Bronze daughter born 1-14-02. Dessa is an acronym for Drive Energy, Search for the Scent and Alert. Dessa is owned and trained by Kelly Pontbriand. Dessa was certified with Maine Search and Rescue Dogs as a wilderness search dog in May 2004. Since that time, she has responded to many searches with her handler. During several searches, she located and indicated to her handler several potential clues. In another search, she picked up a scent pool and worked confidently under a low hovering helicopter that flew over to see if they could spot the missing subjects. Dessa continues her training throughout the year and will be ready to go when the next call comes along. Kelly works for the National Park Service and have been using border collies for search and rescue work since 1987. Dessa is her 3rd Border Collie she has trained in this lifesaving work.
Dessa also "talks" on command. It's guaranteed to bring a smile. (Click on the link to the left to hear her talk.)

Our Border Collie puppies for sale are the result of a breeding program which is a very selective process. Many people expect to get the perfect dog by just putting two Border Collies together. Nothing could be further from reality! We study each potential Dam and Sire objectively to determine what qualities each might bring to the gene pool of the puppies. Temperament is as equally as important as herding ability, for without a biddable nature, the working relationship between human and dog suffers.

We spend many hours clicker training our puppies before they go to their new homes. Behaviors learned are Come (recall), Sit, Down, Wave Hello,
Roll over, fetch toys, tug and they are leash and crate trained. Most recently, we have started teaching them to hit the staples Easy button!

Click on the red button below to see what commands we teach our puppies before they go to their new homes!!

INFORMATION PAGE The info page was created to help prepare you for the pup's arival and how to prevent the most common mistakes in the first year. Video clips!

Email me for a copy of the contract in word doc format. lockeyebc@gmail.com
Or click on this button

When sending a deposit (via paypal or by check) fill out the puppy contract, sign and email or snail mail it back to me.

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Note: To see available pups, go to the top of the page and scroll down.

How we raise our puppies & Clicker training the first 9 weeks:

Our puppies are born into a loving environment. Our whelping boxes are set up in our dining room. There are X-pens around them so that the mom's can stretch and have access to food and water. After the pups are born, we clean the whelping box and put fresh newspaper down. On top of this we put two flat door mats to give them traction. Rugs are dangerous because the pups can crawl under them or the mom might scratch it up over them and they might smother. The flat door mats are the safest flooring for the box we have found.
We take photos of our pups soon after birth. Sometimes we even post photos while they are still wet. It depends on how fast the pups are born.
Sometimes there are 2 hours between pups and others are born every 15 minutes! We post dry photos usually at one day old.
Since the pups don't change from birth until their eyes open, we take the next photos at about 2 weeks old, then weekly after that.
At 3 days old, we start "Early Neurological Stimulation" CLICK on the blue link to the left to view a web page about it.
We do the stimulation once a day until the 16th day. In addition to the stimulation, we put a heating pad in the whelping box(depending on time of the year) which has a vibrating feature. This helps the pups get used to the nail dremel which also vibrates. We take the pups out of the box and clean it as needed. At this age, the mom stimulates her babies to potty by licking their rear and tummies. She takes care of clean up until the pups start eating solid food at 3 weeks. Some mom's never stop cleaning up after their babies.

At 2 weeks old, the pups are bottle fed once a day to encourage bonding with humans.

I put them in a basket and take them into the living room.
I take them out one by one and as I am feeding them, I rub them all over, rock them gently and talk to them. Their ears and eyes are just starting to open! I grind their nails with a dremel. The vibration sometimes makes them burb after eating. It's funny. I do their nails once a week to make them smooth. When they are nursing their mom, they knead like a kitten and if their nails are sharp, it's ouchy on the mom's teats.
At this age they will wake up and walk, stagger, fall over, get back up again and get as far as they can away from their bedding to potty.
Now we tape "wee wee" mats to the floor and over them we put some shredded newspaper. Just a thin layer. Don't want the pups to get lost.

When the pups are 3 weeks old, we give them their first meal. It's gruel made from puppy food in a blender. I add goats milk also. At this age, they wear a lot of the food when they try to eat. We also worm them at 3 weeks of age.

At 3 weeks and 3 days (average) they start to Come Alive! When I hear the first darling puppy bark, I know the playing will start. They are given tiny infant toys that have rattles and noisemakers. I also hang a tug toy with a bell attached to it so they can start learning to tug!
They need more space at 3 weeks, so I remove the whelping box. The potty, sleep and play areas are distinctly different at this point. We put shredded newspaper in the potty area. There are photos at the last section of this page. This is the start of house training! Having a "special" area to potty in makes it easier for them to learn to keep their living area clean. Sometime during this week, I add a few rabbit hutch pans with shredded newspaper to the far side of the pen. They rarely soil their sleeping or play areas after 4 weeks old.
At 4 weeks of age, they are eating some Diamond puppy kibble and Bil Jac frozen food (Thawed of course). It's like doggie hamburger.
They are getting much more agile and can make it further away from their sleeping place to eliminate.
They are playing more and are given things to crawl over and under and larger toys that make more noise.
I grind their nails with a dremel once a week, just prior to taking photos.

At 5 weeks old we start their clicker training and also their crate training & car rides. They are moved to our "Puppy house" & "Play yard" which is an 8 by 12 climate controlled children's play house, complete with a porch for sunning themselves. There are two doggie doors with steps up to the doors. If it is in the winter, the are only put out on sunny days after they are 6-7 weeks old. The other times, they are in our attached garage which is set up like "Romper Room" with all the Little Tykes play toys, slides and stairs.
We have a crate for each pup along the back wall and a CD player for listening to music and also Sound Desensitization CD's. (Noise CD's) They hear children playing, babies screaming, gunshots, fireworks, dogs barking, vacuum cleaners, kitchen sounds, police sirens, thunderstorms and rain on a tin roof.
To begin their clicker training, we first need to do something called "Charging the clicker." This is done by clicking the clicker and then giving them a tiny bite of a food they love. (Chicken, cheese or beef) You do this over and over-----click/treat--click/treat--click/treat until when you click, the pup turns around expecting a treat! At that point, you wait to click until the pup has done something you want to put a name to later. Such as coming to you, sitting or laying down. The first thing the pups learn is "Come!" I will simply walk away and 99.9 % of the time, the pups trot along after me. I will Click and Treat as soon as the pup gets to me. Where you give the pup the food is very important in shaping it's behavior. I will bend down slightly and offer the treat right in front of me, in between my front feet. Close to you as possible.
Never walk to the pup and give it the treat. If it's not coming to you, then you go over to the pup and show the pup the food, by briefly touching your fingers holding the food to it's nose and then backing away slowly. If he's hungry, he will come with you! THEN, click and treat when he's right between your feet. Repeat many times, changing the direction you walk to. Don't walk over to the same spot and you can sometimes walk around a corner to see if the pup will follow you. Click and treat every time the pup runs to you. When the pup "gets the game"--and you can tell when he does, because the pup will be hard to fool! You won't be able to get away from it. Now, you give the Come! command just before walking away. Click and treat as usual when the pup gets to you. Do not repeat the command. NEVER say Come! Come! Come! Come!
That only teaching your pup to ignore you! Instead, if your pup ignores you, turn around and walk away. Sometimes this is like a magnet--it attracts them. Then you can click and treat. If the pup doesn't come, I will show it the food again and go back to the first step. (Not saying the command first)

The 2nd behavior I teach my pups is either Sit or Down, depending on what the pup offers. When I say "Offer," what I really mean is what he does without you luring or guiding him into place using food. It is much better to allow the pup to learn clicker training starting off this way.
If you always lure him into position, he doesn't learn to think for himself! They "get the game" much faster if you wait until your pup spontaneously sits or downs and you click and treat him. He will think "What did I do to get her to click?"
If the pup looses interest, you can show it the food, but then put your hand behind your back or off to the side of your leg. You just want to show it what it's working for, not use it as a bribe.
You wait, tick tock, tick tock.......the pup sits or downs a 2nd time-- you click and treat. It might take 10-25 times and then the pup will start smacking his bottom or tummy on the floor understanding that is what got you to click! This is when you start adding the command of "Sit" or "Down" just prior to the pup doing it. (One second before it does the behavior--- you can tell by his body language that it is going to do the behavior for sure.) Practice this until the pup connects the command word with the actual behavior.

*NOTE*Some behaviors are learned faster by using a lure and some behaviors are almost impossible to catch the pup doing them "naturally."

The 3rd Behavior the pup learns is to WAVE HELLO! (This can also be shake hands) Wait until the pup sits--but don't tell it to sit. In this case, you can lure the sit. The reason you don't want to give the pup a sit command before you begin teaching the wave is that the pup will start to think that Sit means sit and wave, not just sit. The same is true for other commands. You don't want to say the name of a different command before you start teaching a new one. Later, much later, you will be giving many different commands, but at that time, the pup will have a full understanding of what the previous commands are.
To teach the Wave or Shake hands: I take a piece of food and put it between my thumb and 2nd finger. Let the pup smell it and then hold it still at the pup's chin level. If you raise it up too high, the pup will jump up and if you have it too low, the pup will lay down. Chin level is the correct spot. Leave it there and the pup will raise it's foot up to paw at your hand. CLICK and then open your hand and give the food.
Do this until the pup readily paws at your hand, then go a step further, but giving a hand signal with your pointing finger. Show the pup the food and then wave at it with your finger, then when the pup paws at your hand, take it away the split second before it makes contact. Click and treat while the pup's paw is in the air. Repeat and hold out for the waves that are the highest--only click those! after they are high, wait for one or two waves or even three before you click and treat. It really becomes a waving action then! Or if you just want the pup to hold it's paw still in the air, click that instead. (It will look like a Salute.) When you get the behavior like you want it, then add the cue word/command just prior to giving the hand signal.

Crate training and riding in cars: Starting at 5 weeks, the pups are put into crates in pairs for about 15 minutes to start, then gradually, I increase the time. At 6 weeks old, they are usually up to around two hours crate time several times a day.
They are taken on short rides to the post office or another short errand. It is rare for the pups to get sick or even cry.
The prior crate training they have plus the sound of the engine/vibration puts them right to sleep.

* All of the above behaviors are learned between 5 weeks old and the end of the 6th week.

Starting the 7th week:

The 4th Behavior will be Down or Sit, depending on what the pup did for the 2nd behavior. If he learned Down, then I will lure him up with a piece of food into the sit position. It only takes a few times before you have it on a hand signal. I use the palm of the hand going upwards. After the pup is going into a sit from the down position, I then add the verbal command just prior to my hand signal.
If the pup learned sit first, to teach the down I will wait the pup out. You can work on the other behaviors for a few minutes and then sit down in a quiet room. The pup might get frustrated and jump around acting silly. Try to stare at the floor, don't stare directly at the pup. If he accidentally falls down while jumping around, then Click and treat! Sooner than you think, the pup will lay down. When he does, click and give him a handful of treats (JACKPOT!) while praising him with your voice and or petting him. Have a party for a few seconds.
*NOTE* Give the food on the floor--don't offer the food up high. The pup will gravitate to where you feed it, so feed it on the floor! Even if the pup gets up, keep the food low to feed it. Then wait again. You can give the pup a sniff of the treat in your hand, but then hide it again. Wait---the pup will lay down, and get a click and treat. In maybe 1 or 2 lessons, he will be flopping himself down on the floor and looking up at you in anticipation of the click and treat!

5th Behavior is Roll over! Lure the pup into a down (No verbal cues to down, because we aren't working on Down and don't want to get the pup confused between down and roll over.) Pup is lured down and then you take note of which way it's hips are resting. If one is flat on the ground, it will probably be easier to get your pup to roll over that direction. Place the food near the nose and s-l-o-w-l-y lead it's nose to the pup's side and then click and treat. Repeat several times. After the pup easily goes that far, move your hand with the treat further over it's back and it should follow you and roll over. Click and give a jackpot! Lots of treats this time.

Crate training during the 7th to 9th weeks: We gradually increase the time the pups are in their individual crates to about 4 hours for the longest time. They are put into the crates for short (30 minutes to an hour) time spans also.
This is usually when we feed them after clicker training them. After eating a full meal, they have to potty about 30 minutes later. Our normal long crate time is noon to 3 or 4 PM. I've found that the pups are on a natural siesta and just sleep, so it makes learning easier. In addition to the normal crate training, we start playing "Crate Games" with them. Susan Garrette has a DVD called Crate Games. It can be ordered at her web site. Click on the blue link to the left
You can also see video examples of all the above behaviors being taught to our puppies at our Video Example page.
Click on the red button below!

At 7 weeks old, we start Leash Training. The pup is wearing a leash, but I do not pull the pup in any way. The pup learns when it goes to the end of the leash, if it comes back in my direction, it is given a click and treat. I don't walk towards the pup to give the treat--- instead, I click for a step in my direction and then hold the treat against the front of my pants. This will encourage a front recall later. It generally only takes one lesson to each this the pup not to pull!
If I stand in one spot for a while and the pup doesn't give up, I will simply say "Come" because the pup has already learned this and 99% of the time, the pup will bound towards me.
I start teaching the pup where I want it to walk by showing the pup the food in my left hand and move the hand slowly towards my left leg. Sometimes I will take one step back and then one forward to bring the pup into "Heel" position.
(The pup is in "Heel" position when it's shoulder is in line with the seam of my pants.) If the pup stands or sits in heel position even a few seconds, click and treat again--but REMEMBER to feed against the seam of your pants leg.
When you give the treat, have the palm side of your hand facing backwards where the pup can see the treat. If your hand/treat is facing forwards, it will cause the pup to curve around to where it can get to the treat.
Gradually take more steps before you click and treat. Only click when the pup is in the actual "Heel" position and then FEED IN HEEL POSITION! A dog (or any animal) will gravitate (be pulled towards) the area where it gets the reward.

Puppy Picking Day is at 7 weeks old. The reason we wait until the pups are 7 weeks old is so that we can better determine their temperaments and personality traits, including drive level and intensity. We want to place pups that are the highest drive in preformance or herding homes and those that are lower in drive in active pet homes. The pups that are medium drive have their place also. We get to know the people who have sent in deposits to better suggest pups that match their lifestyles.

Deposits and other misc information. We have a waiting list for our pups. To be put on the waiting list, you would need to send in a deposit for half the purchase price of a pup. Since I have lots of litters coming up soon, there wouldn't be a long wait for a pup. Picking order is based on the date the deposit was received, so get yours in soon!
Email me for a copy of the contract in word doc format. lockeyebc@gmail.com
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Questions or Comments about this site E-mail Me or call 918 723-3052