Border Collie Puppies

Lock-Eye Puppy Page
Updates were made on Friday, July 30th, 2010
(All pups shown are available!!!! We take the pups that have been sold off the page within 24 hours. )

You can Paypal payment to lockeye@hughes.net ($1,000 for spay/neuter or $1,200 for breeding potential pups)
We teach all of our pups to Come, Sit, Down, Wave Hello, Shake Hands and they are leash and crate trained!
(Shipping is $400 extra. The "shipping package" includes plane ticket, crate to keep, microchip AND registering the chip in new owners name in the Home Again National Data Base, Vet Health Certificate, shots with shot record, including rabies if old enough, DVD's on Clicker training, a Clicker and a collar! This is for shipping within the United States and Canada only, call for price for outside US.)
Watch new clips on youtube! www.youtube.com/user/lockeye2nd (CLICK ON SEE ALL)

Click on the button above for my puppy contract.

Questions or Comments about the pups?? Questions or Comments about the pups?? E-Mail (lockeyebc@gmail.com)

918 723-3052 (text also) Michelle Weese
We are in North Central Oklahoma and are 1 mile from the Arkansas Border. or 90 miles straight east of Tulsa, OK
We ship our pups all over the world! Scroll completely down the page too see all the pups.
They are all AKC registered and ABCA registered upon request.
Current nicknames can be changed of course!
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Charm & Cinch litter, Born on 4-18-10
To see the parents, scroll past puppy pics
OFA (Hip) and eye testing (CEA) done on ALL parents and documents available upon request.
All pups shown below are available as of July 30th, 2010
We teach all of our pups to Come, Sit, Down, Wave Hello, Shake Hands and they are leash and crate trained!
Shots are up to date, as well as Heartworm prevention and frontline.
Call if you are interested. Michelle Weese 918 723-3052. (Text # also.)

Proud is a medium drive pup who fetches naturally. He is very friendly, with a perfect off switch. He is confident in strange places.
He would be great for Agility, Herding, playing frisbee or obedience. He's great with kids, cats and other dogs, including tiny breeds.
Call if you are interested! 918 723-3052
 
Video shown above is of Proud fetching. Totally natural with no training!
CLICK HERE if you have problems seeing the clip

Below is a clip of Proud's clicker training!
CLICK HERE if you can't view it

 

If the above video doesn't play, CLICK HERE

 

CLICK HERE for the video shown above

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Above pics are of the same puppy, Elegant. She is available with no waiting!
Elegant is very high drive and is excellent with clicker training. Just watch the clip below!
Elegant would be a perfect dog for herding, Agility, Flyball, top level obedience competition or a Frisbee dog.
The first time we took her swimming, she raced into the water and swam the whole time! What a puppy!
Shots are up to date, as well as Heartworm prevention and frontline.
CLICK HERE if you can't view the clip below
Call if you are interested. Michelle Weese 918 723-3052. (Text # also.)


 

Courage is medium-high drive clown of a puppy! Just watch his clip! He's doing awesome with his clicker training.
Courage would be great at any dog sport or herding.
Courage has normal hearing, which can be seen by watching his video clips. His hearing is 100 % guaranteed!
Shots are up to date, as well as Heartworm prevention and frontline.
Courage is available with no waiting! Call if you are interested. Michelle Weese 918 723-3052. (Text # also.)

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Sassy & Peck litter, born on March 25th, 2010
To see the parents, scroll past puppy pics
All hip and eye testing done on ALL parents and documents available upon request.
We teach all of our pups to Come, Sit, Down, Wave Hello, Shake Hands and they are leash and crate trained!
Call if you are interested. Michelle Weese 918 723-3052. (Text # also.)

Click on the button above for my puppy contract.

Azalea is a medium high drive puppy. We now call him "Azzie". On a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the highest, I rate him at a 7
He loves to tug and give kisses. He would be a great herding dog, obedience, Agility, flyball or frisbee dog.
Shots are up to date, as well as Heartworm prevention and frontline.
Watch his clicker clip on youtube! He is Available with no waiting!
Call if you are interested. Michelle Weese 918 723-3052. (Text # also.)

 

If Azalea's clip doesn't work, CLICK HERE

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  Hope & Sage daughter born on Jan 17th, 2010

(Note: We will be taking new pics of Aspen as soon as possible)
To see her parents, scroll past puppy pics.
Aspen is available with no waiting.
Shots are up to date, as well as Heartworm prevention and frontline.

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Aspen is a total sweet heart! She is great with kids and automatically lays down for petting, so would be wonderful with a timid child.
She would be great for a family who want a Border Collie for the first time, but don't want to be over whelmed.
Scroll down to see the parents!

 

CLICK HERE if the clip doesn't play

 

If the video clip doesn't play, CLICK HERE

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Feena & Cinch litter Litter born on Feb 2nd, 2010
(Note: New pics will be taken as soon as possible)
Too see Feena and Cinch, scroll past puppy pics

Desmond is a lower drive, sweet natured puppy. He loves people and is at ease with other dogs, cats and kids!
He would be a great pet for a family with children or someone wanting to just "play at" one of the dog sports.
Desmond is very well trained, using the clicker training method. He knows Come, Sit, Down, Wave Hello, Shake Hands and is totally crate trained and leash trained. He sleeps through the night. He has normal hearing in both ears.
He is up to date on shots, including rabies and is on Heart worm and flea/tick protection. He is available with no waiting!
Feena and Cinch are the parents.
Call if you are interested. 918 723-3052 cell

Sun is a low drive pup. She loves to fetch and give kisses!
She would be a great pet for a family with or without kids. Sun is very well trained, using the clicker training method.
She knows Come, Sit, Down, Wave Hello, Shake Hands and is totally crate trained and leash trained. She sleeps through the night.
She is up to date on shots and worming and has normal hearing. Call if you are interested. She is Available.
918 723-3052 Feena and Cinch are the parents. Scroll down to see them!

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Scroll down to see the parents of all the pups

Why a Lock-Eye?
CLICK HERE to read what all we do the first 9 weeks!
(Be sure and visit our reference page too!)
*Ask for a free copy of our "Pup-TV!"* (Limited time offer)
Send your name and postal address to: lockeyebc@gmail.com
CALL for any information regarding pups or DVD's.
918 723-3052
Subscribe to our YouTube site to watch video clips of training and playing with the pups!
Go to www.youtube.com/lockeye2nd (CLICK ON SEE ALL)

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Click on the button above for prices and my puppy contract.
To view the Active people on the deposit list: Click here
Hip and CEA (eye) certificates gladly sent via email! All parents have been OFA and CEA tested
You can also go to www.offa.org and type in Lock-Eye in the search and see how many have been tested over the years.
Note: Some of my early dogs didn't have Lock-Eye as a prefix. Syd is one of them.
Call if you are interested. 918 723-3052, text also. ($1,000 for spay/neuter, $1,200 for breeding contract.)
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Moxie is the mom and Cinch is the dad to Ketchum

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Blastoff Sassy & Lock-Eye Peck litter was born on Thursday, March 25th, 2010
Sassy is OFA Good and CEA Normal. Peck is OFA Good and CEA Normal.
Peck is a son of Smooch and Rimmer. Both Parents are AKC and ABCA Registered.
Sassy is sired by Sage and out of FA's Light my Fuse, aka "Blast" (Formally of "Blastoff bc's)
Their hair will grow longer. Watch clips on youtube! www.youtube.com/user/lockeye2nd

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Above is Lock-Eye Peck on the cheek. (Smooch son)

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Charm x Cinch litter born on April 18th, 2010
Pics of Charm and Cinch below the pups, or CLICK HERE
Charm and Cinch are OFA Good. Charm is CEA Normal and Cinch is a CEA Carrier.
All the coats on the pups will be long and their noses will fill in gradually.
Parents are both AKC and ABCA registered.

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Pictured on the left and right is Charm.

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Pictured above is Charm, the mom to the 8 pups above.

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Charm working sheep

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Charm pics

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Lock-Eye Hope and B24 Sage litter born on Jan 17th, 2010
This is a repeat breeding!
Both Hope and Sage are OFA Good. Hope is CEA Normal and Sage is a carrier.
Go to www.optigen.com to read about this genetic test.
There is ZERO percent chance that the pups could have CEA because Hope does not have the gene to give them. :-)
So, it's fine to breed a carrier to a normal. AKC registered and ABCA upon request.

Video clips on youtube! www.youtube.com/lockeye2nd

Call if you are interested. 918 723-3052, text also. ($1,000 for spay/neuter, $1,200 for breeding contract.)
We ship all over the world. Since the pups are so comfortable in their crates, they just sleep.
Email for paypal payment is lockeye@hughes.net http://www.paypal.com.html

Aspen's mom is Hope and her dad is Sage. Scroll down for pics of the parents.

 

To see photos of the parents, scroll down (Hope & Sage)

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Below are pics and information on Desmond's and Sun's parents.
Lock-Eye Feena and Lock-Eye It's a Cinch, aka "Cinch"
Litter born on Feb 2nd, 2010
Below are photos of Cinch and Feena, the parents of the pups shown above.

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Lock-Eye It's a Cinch, aka "Cinch"
(Cinch is a Style & Sage son born on March 27th, 2008-he is not for sale)
Cinch is a Blue Merle Tri colored, Rough coated Border Collie.
He has an awesome personality and is extremly intense and has crystal blue eyes. He also has a tan mask, which is unusual.
CEA Carrier and OFA Prelim Good. His parents are Style and Sage, both OFA Good and his grand parents Pearl and Mick are OFA Good and Pearl's parents, are OFA Good, so there is a long history of Good hips in his background. He will be OFA'd again at age 2.
CLICK HERE to see a video cilp of Cinch's 1st herding lesson on sheep.
He is currently in training to herd and is totally natural and has extreme power and eye. He is very easy to work with, very biddable.
This was also his first time in a big field. He had been worked in the round pen before.

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Feena is a Sheena & Peck daughter. She is OFA Good and CEA Normal
All the pups will be long haired.
Feena is a happy-go-lucky girl who loves to play and tug.
The theme for this litter is the tv show "Lost". They can be changed of course.
The pups shown above are available! See video clips on youtube! They are AWESOME puppies!
Call if you are interested. 918 723-3052, text also. ($1,000 for spay/neuter, $1,200 for breeding contract.)
We ship all over the world. Since the pups are so comfortable in their crates, they just sleep.
Email for paypal payment is lockeye@hughes.net http://www.paypal.com.html

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We aren't planning more litters until most of these pups are in their new homes. (Probably will be fall of 2010 before a new litter is born)
We DO keep training them if they aren't picked by 9 weeks old.
Plus they are taken on long walks on our 60 acres and have fun swimming and racing through the fields and wooded trails.
I will start their herding training on dog broke lambs as soon as they are keen to work.
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Questions or Comments about the pups?? Questions or Comments about the pups?? E-Mail Me (lockeyebc@gmail.com)

I can also be reached by text message at: 9187233052 Phone calls welcome. My name is Michelle. 918 723-3052

Border Collie puppies bred by Lock-Eye Border Collies are in training around the world! Lock-Eye Border Collies produce awesome puppies for a variety of activities. We offer border collie puppies for sale that are selectively bred for their intense work ethic and endurance. Our dogs excel at herding and work cattle, sheep and ducks. We have also sold several dogs that work as "Goose Control dogs." These dogs scare off ("Herd") wild geese that refuse to migrate and are a health hazard to the public. Lock-Eye Border Collies also compete in top level Canine Sports, such as Agility, Flyball and Obedience. There are also many Lock-Eye Border Collies around the country doing Search and Rescue and several puppies in training. We are proud of them all! We are located in North Eastern Oklahoma. (Westville,Oklahoma)
Feel free to call me at: 918 723-3052 (Michelle Weese) if you would like to talk the "Old Fashioned Way."

I especially have a soft spot in my heart for Search and Rescue dogs. The dog pictured left and right is a Smooch x Bronze daughter born 1-14-02. Dessa is an acronym for Drive Energy, Search for the Scent and Alert. Dessa is owned and trained by Kelly Pontbriand. Dessa was certified with Maine Search and Rescue Dogs as a wilderness search dog in May 2004. Since that time, she has responded to five searches with her handler. Although she did not locate the missing people, she did an excellent job covering her search area. During several other searches, she located and indicated to her handler several potential clues. In another search, she picked up a scent pool and worked confidently under a low hovering helicopter that flew over to see if they could spot the missing subjects. Winter 2005 did not bring any calls, but Dessa continued her training throughout the winter and will be ready to go when the next call comes along. Kelly works for the National Park Service and have been using border collies for search and rescue work since 1987. Dessa is her 3rd Border Collie she has trained in this lifesaving work.
Dessa also "talks" on command. It's guaranteed to bring a smile. (Click on the link to the left to hear her talk.)

Our Border Collie puppies for sale are the result of a breeding program which is a very selective process. Many people expect to get the perfect dog by just putting two Border Collies together. Nothing could be further from reality! We study each potential Dam and Sire objectively to determine what qualities each might bring to the gene pool of the puppies. Temperament is as equally as important as herding ability, for without a biddable nature, the working relationship between human and dog suffers.

We spend many hours clicker training our puppies before they go to their new homes. Behaviors learned are Come (recall), Sit, Down, Wave Hello,
Roll over, fetch toys, tug and they are leash and crate trained. Most recently, we have started teaching them to hit the staples Easy button!

Click on the red button below to see what commands we teach our puppies before they go to their new homes!!

INFORMATION PAGE The info page was created to help prepare you for the pup's arival and how to prevent the most common mistakes in the first year. Video clips!

Click on the button above for prices and my puppy contract.
When sending a deposit (via paypal or by check) fill out the puppy contract, sign and email or snail mail it back to me.

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Note: To see available pups, go to the top of the page and scroll down.

How we raise our puppies & Clicker training the first 9 weeks:

Our puppies are born into a loving environment. Our whelping boxes are set up in our dining room. There are X-pens around them so that the mom's can stretch and have access to food and water. After the pups are born, we clean the whelping box and put fresh newspaper down. On top of this we put two flat door mats to give them traction. Rugs are dangerous because the pups can crawl under them or the mom might scratch it up over them and they might smother. The flat door mats are the safest flooring for the box we have found.
We take photos of our pups soon after birth. Sometimes we even post photos while they are still wet. It depends on how fast the pups are born.
Sometimes there are 2 hours between pups and others are born every 15 minutes! We post dry photos usually at one day old.
Since the pups don't change from birth until their eyes open, we take the next photos at about 2 weeks old, then weekly after that.
At 3 days old, we start "Early Neurological Stimulation" CLICK on the blue link to the left to view a web page about it.
We do the stimulation once a day until the 16th day. In addition to the stimulation, we put a heating pad in the whelping box(depending on time of the year) which has a vibrating feature. This helps the pups get used to the nail dremel which also vibrates. We take the pups out of the box and clean it as needed. At this age, the mom stimulates her babies to potty by licking their rear and tummies. She takes care of clean up until the pups start eating solid food at 3 weeks. Some mom's never stop cleaning up after their babies.

At 2 weeks old, the pups are bottle fed once a day to encourage bonding with humans.

I put them in a basket and take them into the living room.
I take them out one by one and as I am feeding them, I rub them all over, rock them gently and talk to them. Their ears and eyes are just starting to open! I grind their nails with a dremel. The vibration sometimes makes them burb after eating. It's funny. I do their nails once a week to make them smooth. When they are nursing their mom, they knead like a kitten and if their nails are sharp, it's ouchy on the mom's teats.
At this age they will wake up and walk, stagger, fall over, get back up again and get as far as they can away from their bedding to potty.
Now we tape "wee wee" mats to the floor and over them we put some shredded newspaper. Just a thin layer. Don't want the pups to get lost.

When the pups are 3 weeks old, we give them their first meal. It's gruel made from puppy food in a blender. I add goats milk also. At this age, they wear a lot of the food when they try to eat. We also worm them at 3 weeks of age.

At 3 weeks and 3 days (average) they start to Come Alive! When I hear the first darling puppy bark, I know the playing will start. They are given tiny infant toys that have rattles and noisemakers. I also hang a tug toy with a bell attached to it so they can start learning to tug!
They need more space at 3 weeks, so I remove the whelping box. The potty, sleep and play areas are distinctly different at this point. We put shredded newspaper in the potty area. There are photos at the last section of this page. This is the start of house training! Having a "special" area to potty in makes it easier for them to learn to keep their living area clean. Sometime during this week, I add a few rabbit hutch pans with shredded newspaper to the far side of the pen. They rarely soil their sleeping or play areas after 4 weeks old.
At 4 weeks of age, they are eating some Diamond puppy kibble and Bil Jac frozen food (Thawed of course). It's like doggie hamburger.
They are getting much more agile and can make it further away from their sleeping place to eliminate.
They are playing more and are given things to crawl over and under and larger toys that make more noise.
I grind their nails with a dremel once a week, just prior to taking photos.

At 5 weeks old we start their clicker training and also their crate training & car rides. They are moved to our "Puppy house" & "Play yard" which is an 8 by 12 climate controlled children's play house, complete with a porch for sunning themselves. There are two doggie doors with steps up to the doors. If it is in the winter, the are only put out on sunny days after they are 6-7 weeks old. The other times, they are in our attached garage which is set up like "Romper Room" with all the Little Tykes play toys, slides and stairs.
We have a crate for each pup along the back wall and a CD player for listening to music and also Sound Desensitization CD's. (Noise CD's) They hear children playing, babies screaming, gunshots, fireworks, dogs barking, vacuum cleaners, kitchen sounds, police sirens, thunderstorms and rain on a tin roof.
To begin their clicker training, we first need to do something called "Charging the clicker." This is done by clicking the clicker and then giving them a tiny bite of a food they love. (Chicken, cheese or beef) You do this over and over-----click/treat--click/treat--click/treat until when you click, the pup turns around expecting a treat! At that point, you wait to click until the pup has done something you want to put a name to later. Such as coming to you, sitting or laying down. The first thing the pups learn is "Come!" I will simply walk away and 99.9 % of the time, the pups trot along after me. I will Click and Treat as soon as the pup gets to me. Where you give the pup the food is very important in shaping it's behavior. I will bend down slightly and offer the treat right in front of me, in between my front feet. Close to you as possible.
Never walk to the pup and give it the treat. If it's not coming to you, then you go over to the pup and show the pup the food, by briefly touching your fingers holding the food to it's nose and then backing away slowly. If he's hungry, he will come with you! THEN, click and treat when he's right between your feet. Repeat many times, changing the direction you walk to. Don't walk over to the same spot and you can sometimes walk around a corner to see if the pup will follow you. Click and treat every time the pup runs to you. When the pup "gets the game"--and you can tell when he does, because the pup will be hard to fool! You won't be able to get away from it. Now, you give the Come! command just before walking away. Click and treat as usual when the pup gets to you. Do not repeat the command. NEVER say Come! Come! Come! Come!
That only teaching your pup to ignore you! Instead, if your pup ignores you, turn around and walk away. Sometimes this is like a magnet--it attracts them. Then you can click and treat. If the pup doesn't come, I will show it the food again and go back to the first step. (Not saying the command first)

The 2nd behavior I teach my pups is either Sit or Down, depending on what the pup offers. When I say "Offer," what I really mean is what he does without you luring or guiding him into place using food. It is much better to allow the pup to learn clicker training starting off this way.
If you always lure him into position, he doesn't learn to think for himself! They "get the game" much faster if you wait until your pup spontaneously sits or downs and you click and treat him. He will think "What did I do to get her to click?"
If the pup looses interest, you can show it the food, but then put your hand behind your back or off to the side of your leg. You just want to show it what it's working for, not use it as a bribe.
You wait, tick tock, tick tock.......the pup sits or downs a 2nd time-- you click and treat. It might take 10-25 times and then the pup will start smacking his bottom or tummy on the floor understanding that is what got you to click! This is when you start adding the command of "Sit" or "Down" just prior to the pup doing it. (One second before it does the behavior--- you can tell by his body language that it is going to do the behavior for sure.) Practice this until the pup connects the command word with the actual behavior.

*NOTE*Some behaviors are learned faster by using a lure and some behaviors are almost impossible to catch the pup doing them "naturally."

The 3rd Behavior the pup learns is to WAVE HELLO! (This can also be shake hands) Wait until the pup sits--but don't tell it to sit. In this case, you can lure the sit. The reason you don't want to give the pup a sit command before you begin teaching the wave is that the pup will start to think that Sit means sit and wave, not just sit. The same is true for other commands. You don't want to say the name of a different command before you start teaching a new one. Later, much later, you will be giving many different commands, but at that time, the pup will have a full understanding of what the previous commands are.
To teach the Wave or Shake hands: I take a piece of food and put it between my thumb and 2nd finger. Let the pup smell it and then hold it still at the pup's chin level. If you raise it up too high, the pup will jump up and if you have it too low, the pup will lay down. Chin level is the correct spot. Leave it there and the pup will raise it's foot up to paw at your hand. CLICK and then open your hand and give the food.
Do this until the pup readily paws at your hand, then go a step further, but giving a hand signal with your pointing finger. Show the pup the food and then wave at it with your finger, then when the pup paws at your hand, take it away the split second before it makes contact. Click and treat while the pup's paw is in the air. Repeat and hold out for the waves that are the highest--only click those! after they are high, wait for one or two waves or even three before you click and treat. It really becomes a waving action then! Or if you just want the pup to hold it's paw still in the air, click that instead. (It will look like a Salute.) When you get the behavior like you want it, then add the cue word/command just prior to giving the hand signal.

Crate training and riding in cars: Starting at 5 weeks, the pups are put into crates in pairs for about 15 minutes to start, then gradually, I increase the time. At 6 weeks old, they are usually up to around two hours crate time several times a day.
They are taken on short rides to the post office or another short errand. It is rare for the pups to get sick or even cry.
The prior crate training they have plus the sound of the engine/vibration puts them right to sleep.

* All of the above behaviors are learned between 5 weeks old and the end of the 6th week.

Starting the 7th week:

The 4th Behavior will be Down or Sit, depending on what the pup did for the 2nd behavior. If he learned Down, then I will lure him up with a piece of food into the sit position. It only takes a few times before you have it on a hand signal. I use the palm of the hand going upwards. After the pup is going into a sit from the down position, I then add the verbal command just prior to my hand signal.
If the pup learned sit first, to teach the down I will wait the pup out. You can work on the other behaviors for a few minutes and then sit down in a quiet room. The pup might get frustrated and jump around acting silly. Try to stare at the floor, don't stare directly at the pup. If he accidentally falls down while jumping around, then Click and treat! Sooner than you think, the pup will lay down. When he does, click and give him a handful of treats (JACKPOT!) while praising him with your voice and or petting him. Have a party for a few seconds.
*NOTE* Give the food on the floor--don't offer the food up high. The pup will gravitate to where you feed it, so feed it on the floor! Even if the pup gets up, keep the food low to feed it. Then wait again. You can give the pup a sniff of the treat in your hand, but then hide it again. Wait---the pup will lay down, and get a click and treat. In maybe 1 or 2 lessons, he will be flopping himself down on the floor and looking up at you in anticipation of the click and treat!

5th Behavior is Roll over! Lure the pup into a down (No verbal cues to down, because we aren't working on Down and don't want to get the pup confused between down and roll over.) Pup is lured down and then you take note of which way it's hips are resting. If one is flat on the ground, it will probably be easier to get your pup to roll over that direction. Place the food near the nose and s-l-o-w-l-y lead it's nose to the pup's side and then click and treat. Repeat several times. After the pup easily goes that far, move your hand with the treat further over it's back and it should follow you and roll over. Click and give a jackpot! Lots of treats this time.

Crate training during the 7th to 9th weeks: We gradually increase the time the pups are in their individual crates to about 4 hours for the longest time. They are put into the crates for short (30 minutes to an hour) time spans also.
This is usually when we feed them after clicker training them. After eating a full meal, they have to potty about 30 minutes later. Our normal long crate time is noon to 3 or 4 PM. I've found that the pups are on a natural siesta and just sleep, so it makes learning easier. In addition to the normal crate training, we start playing "Crate Games" with them. Susan Garrette has a DVD called Crate Games. It can be ordered at her web site. Click on the blue link to the left
You can also see video examples of all the above behaviors being taught to our puppies at our Video Example page.
Click on the red button below!

At 7 weeks old, we start Leash Training. The pup is wearing a leash, but I do not pull the pup in any way. The pup learns when it goes to the end of the leash, if it comes back in my direction, it is given a click and treat. I don't walk towards the pup to give the treat--- instead, I click for a step in my direction and then hold the treat against the front of my pants. This will encourage a front recall later. It generally only takes one lesson to each this the pup not to pull!
If I stand in one spot for a while and the pup doesn't give up, I will simply say "Come" because the pup has already learned this and 99% of the time, the pup will bound towards me.
I start teaching the pup where I want it to walk by showing the pup the food in my left hand and move the hand slowly towards my left leg. Sometimes I will take one step back and then one forward to bring the pup into "Heel" position.
(The pup is in "Heel" position when it's shoulder is in line with the seam of my pants.) If the pup stands or sits in heel position even a few seconds, click and treat again--but REMEMBER to feed against the seam of your pants leg.
When you give the treat, have the palm side of your hand facing backwards where the pup can see the treat. If your hand/treat is facing forwards, it will cause the pup to curve around to where it can get to the treat.
Gradually take more steps before you click and treat. Only click when the pup is in the actual "Heel" position and then FEED IN HEEL POSITION! A dog (or any animal) will gravitate (be pulled towards) the area where it gets the reward.

Puppy Picking Day is at 7 weeks old. The reason we wait until the pups are 7 weeks old is so that we can better determine their temperaments and personality traits, including drive level and intensity. We want to place pups that are the highest drive in preformance or herding homes and those that are lower in drive in active pet homes. The pups that are medium drive have their place also. We get to know the people who have sent in deposits to better suggest pups that match their lifestyles.

Deposits and other misc information. We have a waiting list for our pups. To be put on the waiting list, you would need to send in a deposit for half the purchase price of a pup. Since I have lots of litters coming up soon, there wouldn't be a long wait for a pup. Picking order is based on the date the deposit was received, so get yours in soon!

Click on the button above for prices and my puppy contract.

To be continued...

(Be sure and visit our reference pages too!)

Questions or Comments about this site E-mail Me or call 918 723-3052